JessAbroad

I returned to the bazaar today and alas, the bitchy woman was present and had the only decent fish. I did not get fish yesterday so I decided to try her booth again. She was not mean this time. Rather, she seemed interested in why I was shopping there and asked if I was visiting long term. I told her I am a Peace Corps volunteer, and I will teach at the CEG and Lycée for two years. She responded with, “two weeks?” I replied, “no, two years.” “Are you serious? You will be here for two years?” “Yes, I will teach at the Lycée and CEG for two years.” She smiled, and then gave me the best fish in the lot.

My fish cleaning skills are improving with each meal. Previously I scraped scales before gutting the fish, but I found that my grip was too tight, crushing the organs and creating bloody fish meat. Today, I gutted the fish before scraping scales, and I have taken a step towards a cosmetically attractive fish. I also decided to return from my no rice vacation and made curry vary mena (curry red rice). Despite the amount of mofo akondro I have consumed lately, I still cannot get enough, and I enjoyed that for dessert.

Today I managed to solve a huge problem I have had since my arrival. Before I get into the problem, I must brief you all on the electricity situation at my site. I have electricity, but it is limited. I share electricity with two families, an office and the EPP, so I need to watch my consumption or the electricity simply shuts off for everyone. In an effort to conserve electricity during the day, I keep my window and door open like everyone else in Madagascar, but I have had a big problem with people stopping to look in my house through my window and door. The community is supposed to build a fence for me, but I know even that will not stop spectators. It got so bad that people would stand from a far distance at an angle just right so they could see me in my house. I live on the grounds of the EPP, and there were often groups of men that would hang out outside of classrooms so they can check me out.

It does not stop there. I live on a hill, and there is a narrow walkway by my window. The only people that have reason to be there are the neighboring families and me, but strange men would walk that pathway so they could look through my window. Eventually I started shutting the door and window when they did this to send a message, and it worked for the window, but not for the door. Today I purchased a magic curtain. This curtain is amazing! Firstly, it is light purple so it is consistent with the color theme of my house. Secondly, I can see through the curtain to the outside world, but the world cannot see me. Thirdly, it is a lace curtain so I can still enjoy my fresh ocean breeze. I have had my door open all day with my magic curtain and ocean breeze, and I finally feel at ease.

A dog named Kid has adopted me here in Madagascar. Before we met he was nameless, but I cannot imagine having a nameless dog. American and European pirates once inhabited Ile Sainte Marie, and it is famous for being the final resting place for William Kid, aka Billy the Kid. I visited his tomb, and I have named my new little friend Kid in his honor.

Most dogs in Madagascar look alike: black with some white and resemble an ancestor of the Labrador. Kid is no exception, but I think he is cuter than the rest of the dogs in Ambodifotatra. Unfortunately, in general Malagasy people treat dogs poorly. In America and Europe, we have cats and dogs for companionship and more often than not, they are overfed, but here animals work as garbage disposals only, and that is if they are lucky. It is common for people to kick their dog and let it go without food for several days. Most people do not have a car in Madagascar, but those who do have no qualms with hitting animals on the street.

I have grown to love Kid, and I have considered taking him with me at the close of my service, but I think it would be impossible to domesticate this dog. For the past week, I have sat with Kid on my porch and watched the sunset over the ocean, his head resting on my leg while I stroke his back. The other night I heard a dog fight outside, and I cannot help but to assume Kid was involved because he had a terrible limp the following day. I tried to persuade him with food to sleep inside last night, but he was restless and anxious, so I let him go. I want to shield this dog from danger, but the sad truth is I just cannot do that.

I do feed him though. Unlike dogs in the US, dogs in Madagascar can eat anything, and they do. Kid eats fish, fish bones, bread, cookies, French fries, mofo akondro, pasta and anything else I throw his way, minus carrots. Dog food and cat food do not exist here because dogs and cats eat people food, usually the leftovers from meals. I have gotten good at cooking for one person, but now I try to cook extra so Kid can eat, too. I keep bolo cookies on hand in case he visits during non-meal times.

Bolo cookies are amazing. I did not like them at first, but my food standards have significantly decreased since I have lived here, and now I like Bolo cookies almost as much as Kit Kat bars. Bolo cookies are two round chocolate covered cookies that taste like Costco animal crackers and have vanilla, strawberry, or banana filling. They remind me of cheap Easter candy, but when that is the best thing in the country, it may as well level with Godiva chocolate.

Speaking of chocolate, Malagasy chocolate is gross, but I have grown fond of Robert Chocolate. Some French dude named Robert started producing chocolate in Madagascar in 1947 because there was none. Robert Chocolate is by far the best in country, but it would not be my first, or even tenth choice in the US or Europe. I fear the fine taste buds I developed in France may have diminished in a matter of months. Before you know it, I will think sauerkraut juice is delicious!

Returning to Europe is definitely in my future. I am already investigating the best way to obtain my visa for a Schengen country, preferably France. After teaching here for two years with limited to no resources, I will be ready to teach anywhere, and I hope that will be Europe, fingers crossed!